Monthly Archives: January 2014

Twelfth Night

LaBefana

ELEVENTH DAY of CHRISTMAS:
Twelfth Night, Eve of the Epiphany

The daylight hours of this Eleventh Day of Christmas offer us another day of preparation, which will be needed, for the setting sun brings us the great festivity of Twelfth Night, a night of eating, drinking, games and music to rival that with which we began at the start of the Christmas season. Christmas deserves as much, no? We rearrange our furniture for Christmas, we bring in a tree, we bake special treats… it’s such a big presence in our lives while it’s with us that it’s only proper to send Old Father Christmas on his way with the festive spirit he deserves.

Twelfth Night and Epiphany center on the Magi and their arrival at Bethlehem to see the child. Tradition tells us that their journey took them across the desert and their arrival was not until the Sixth of January. There are many traditions surrounding Twelfth Night, and as with most things Christmas, they are a mysterious blend of Christian customs and earlier pagan ones. There is, for instance, the tradition of the King of the Bean: a bean is baked into the Twelfth Night cake, and the person who finds it in his plate is crowned King of the Bean, and he becomes the Lord of the Feast for Twelfth Night, leading the company in games and song. In Italy, the bean is a fava bean. In France, there often is not just a bean but also a pea, and the person who finds the pea is the queen. These are traditions that go back directly to the ancient Roman solstice celebration of Saturnalia, where the very same thing was done. To think that people have been performing this same ritual at this dark time of year for so many centuries is, to me, fascinating.

In Italy, this Eve of the Epiphany is the night of la befana. The legend tells us that at that first Christmas oh so long ago, the Magi stopped at la befana’s house and asked her to join them on their journey, but she turned them down, for she had too much housework to do, and so they went on their way. But la befana had a change of heart as she swept the floors, and once she was done sweeping, she set out to find the Magi. But she never did find them, nor the child… and to this day, on each Twelfth Night, she sets out upon her broom to seek them.

La befana is also one of the last of the Yuletide gift bearers, for as she makes her way across the country, she delivers small presents to the children. For those that were not so good, she might leave a lump of coal, but even that is not so bad, because la befana’s coal is sweet as sugar.

Epiphany on the 6th of January is still a major day for gift-giving in Italy (as well as in Latin America, where the festival of los Tres Reyes, the Three Kings, is celebrated… and they also are gift-bearers). If la befana riding the night on her broom sounds a bit like a witch to you, that would be a fairly accurate description, and so here again we have a bit of paganness, in la befana as a personification of the pagan earth goddess as the wise old hag, giving way to the child, just as the old year passes into the new. Her name, befana, is thought to be a corruption of the Italian name for Epiphany: Epifania.

At this time of year my cousins in New York and New England gather together for a Christmastime dinner and la befana always comes to pay a visit. It’s often my cousin Cammie that plays the part. For us here in Lake Worth, Twelfth Night will be a night for a sparkling Christmas punch and a festive dinner with family. It’s usually something grand and this year it’s something we’ve never made before: a standing rib roast. Usually there are small presents to exchange in a game we call Yankee Swap, but this year, it’ll be more like a second Christmas, as my nephew and his family from the Gulf Coast come to spend Twelfth Night with us, and so the gifts given this night will be more in the spirit of the gifts the Magi brought to Bethlehem.

La befana, meanwhile, will begin the process of sweeping away the Christmas festivities for one more year. By the time she’s done with her sweeping tomorrow, Christmas will be done.

Image: My cousin Marietta was kind enough to send me this photo of a recent Cutrone cousins party, which takes place around Twelfth Night every year. That’s my cousin Cammie as la befana, backed up by our own three kings.

 

 

Following that Star

Starlight

TENTH DAY of CHRISTMAS:
St. Titus’s and St. Gregory’s Day

On this Tenth Day of Christmas, we celebrate the feast days of St. Titus, disciple of St. Paul (first century), and St. Gregory, bishop (541)… not to mention St. Rigobert and St. Ramon. But to be honest, even with so many good saints to celebrate on the Fourth of January, there’s not much in terms of ceremony to attach to these guys. And maybe that’s just as well, for the Tenth Day of Christmas is perhaps best marked as a day of preparation for what lies ahead: Twelfth Night and Epiphany, which, in some places, mark the biggest celebrations of the season. For those who keep Christmas well, it is only fitting to close the Yuletide festivities with a bang, and it will take some doing to prepare for that proper close.

Here’s a recipe for one of the Epiphany traditions in our house: Three Kings Cakes. You will need three loaf pans because the recipe yields three cakes, one for each of the Magi: Caspar, Melchior, and Balthasar. The Magi will arrive on the Sixth of January, just in time for these delightful cakes that are flavored with honey and rose water, flavors of the ancient Mediterranean world, flavors they certainly knew well in their day. Perhaps the aroma, like the star, will help them along as they wend their way across the land.

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THREE KINGS CAKES
makes three cakes

For the Batter
1 cup butter
generous 3/4 cup sugar
2 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla
2 1/2 cups currants
3 cups applesauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
4 cups flour

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Cream together the butter and the sugar, then add the eggs and vanilla. Beat smooth before adding the remaining ingredients. Grease 3 loaf pans (about 8″ x 4″ x 3″ or so) and divide the batter amongst the pans. Bake for one hour, or until a toothpick poked into the center of each cake comes out dry. Let the cakes cool in their pans on a rack.

For the Syrup
1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
1 cinnamon stick
6 whole cloves
2 tablespoons rose water

Once the cakes are baked, combine the syrup ingredients, except for the rose water, in a saucepan over medium heat. Once the sugar dissolves, add the rose water. Remove the cinnamon stick and the cloves and then pour the hot syrup over the cakes in their pans, divided equally amongst the three cakes. The syrup will soak into the cakes. Allow to cool completely before unmolding from the pans. Serving the three cakes on three platters makes for a nice presentation on Epiphany Day.

If you have trouble finding good rose water, we happen to sell the stuff at our website. Our rose water is made by the Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community in Maine, from their line of culinary herbs and herbal teas that we’ve been selling at conviviobookworks.com for years now. It’s one of the most delightful flavorings you’ll bake with, adding a mysterious and delicate flavor not just to these cakes, but also to apple pie, cookies, and even French toast. It’s pretty wonderful.

Come tomorrow, we’ll be hanging paper star lanterns in our house, filling up the Christmas punch bowl once again, and cooking up a hearty meal. Twelfth Night and Epiphany mark feasts that almost rival Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, where our journey first began. Somewhere on the horizon there are three old men following that star, nearing their destination, and la befana is at her cleaning; she has her broom in hand, and she’s ready to sweep away the festivities. But that’s another story for another day. Perhaps tomorrow.

 

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Joyeux Noël

NINTH DAY of CHRISTMAS:
St. Genevieve’s Day

Beginning with yesterday’s feast day of St. Macarius, we’ve entered into a more contemplative period of our Yuletide Twelve Days, a trend that will continue through tomorrow. Today on this Ninth Day of Christmas we celebrate St. Genevieve, patron saint of Paris. She was born in the fifth century in the French countryside and eventually settled in Paris, where she became a nun. She is attributed with saving the city from an attack by Attila and his Huns in 451 through fasting and prayer, and she was the founder, around 475, of the Basilica of St. Denis.

St. Genevieve is often depicted with a candle, and here again at the deep darkness of solsticetide we have an image of light, much like Santa Lucia on the 13th of December. It is said that although the devil continually blew out her candle when she would pray at night, St. Genevieve was able to relight it without use of flint or fire… and again the bleak midwinter’s darkness is overcome.

 

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