Monthly Archives: March 2016

Balance

The Waterfall

By the time you read this, spring will have made its arrival by the almanac: the equinox––vernal here in the Northern Hemisphere, autumnal in the Southern––came and went at 12:30 in the morning (Eastern Daylight Time) this 20th day of March. In traditional reckoning of time we are at spring’s height, its midpoint, and now are on the downhill ride toward summer. But no matter how you reckon your time, what is clear in all cases is this: balance. Day and night now are just about equal in length no matter where we are on the planet, and there is something about that balance that is wonderful (as in full of wonder): no matter what concerns we have in our lives, be they major or minor, the celestial clockwork continues. If a vast planet of oceans and mountains can achieve balance, it gives us hope that we can, too.

It is, as well today, Palm Sunday, setting the events of Holy Week in motion. We enter into the highest days of the Christian calendar. I have said this before in the Convivio Book of Days: Palm Sunday has never been a favorite day of mine. The Mass is really long, the congregation gets to read but it’s almost always lackluster and halfhearted, and I never know if I should feel mourning or celebration. Father Seamus likes to say that attendance goes up whenever they give something away at church, even if it is just a couple of palms, even in this chlorophyll-laden land where we see palm trees every time we open our eyes.

One of the more charming traditions for the day is the fashioning of crosses out of those palms. Some can be very elaborate: my mom’s cousin’s husband could turn a single palm frond into a cross with two flowers bursting out of its center. A lesser known tradition would have us eat figs on Palm Sunday, which comes out of the story of Christ’s cursing of the fig tree, which occurred soon after he arrived in Jerusalem:

In the morning, as he was returning to the city, he became hungry. And seeing a fig tree by the wayside, he went to it and found nothing on it but only leaves. And he said to it, “May no fruit ever come from you again!” And the fig tree withered at once. (Matthew 21: 18-19)

And even this irritates me about Palm Sunday. This story sounds like something Teenager Jesus might have done. Why curse a fig tree for having no fruit? Be that as it may, some people make sure to eat figs on Palm Sunday just because of this verse and a similar one in Mark. They’ll be eating dried figs, for sure, because it’s not fig season. You’d think Jesus would have known that, too.

And with Palm Sunday’s close, we begin to clean. Just as we “made our house fair as we are able” during Advent, these next few days are days of making our house fair as we are able for the coming feast of Easter. By Wednesday night, the moon will be full and all should be done, and all distractions set aside, for the mysteries of Easter begin with Holy Thursday: one of my favorite nights of the year, a night rich with ceremony and ending in pilgrimage and peaceful contemplation, and I am of the mind that my disdain for Palm Sunday is more than made up for by my love for Maundy Thursday. And there it is, perhaps: that balance, manifested, as we stand here on a planet midway now between longest night and longest day.

Image: “The Waterfall” by Anton Romako. Painting, late 19th century. [Public domain] via Wikimedia Commons.

 

Tonight Zeppole

455_-_Siracusa_-_Cartello_in_una_pasticceria-_Foto_Giovanni_Dall'Orto_-_15-Oct-2008

And so the Finns had St. Urho’s Day this past week and the Irish had St. Patrick’s Day. But today it is St. Joseph’s Day, and here we come to a very important day to my people. For us Italians, the feast of San Giuseppe centers around food (imagine that?!) and in particular one pastry: zeppole. Any good Italian bakery worth its salt (or perhaps sugar) will be selling these pastries, which traditionally make their appearance only at this time of year, today. In the more popular bakeries, you might find rolling racks full of trays of them behind the counter; they’ll be making so many of them, they won’t possibly fit them all inside the display case.

Zeppole are pastries of fried dough, generous in size, each typically something you could fit into two open hands. They are filled with custard and often include a few cherries on top. There are also sfinci, related to zeppole, but filled with sweetened ricotta cream, perhaps with a few small chocolate chips, very much like a cannoli filling. Variations of these sweets, in name and in shape and ingredients, exist throughout Italy for the feast of San Giuseppe, but it is in the South, from where my family hails, that they are best known. Both sfinci and zeppole are pastries with histories that go back many centuries, with names that come out of the Arabic influence on the region. How far back do they go? The ancient Romans made fried pastries each year on the 17th of March in honor of Bacchus, and it is thought that the zeppole and sfinci we make today are direct descendants of those long ago sweets of springtime.

It may be Lent, but St. Joseph’s Day provides a day to step away from that otherwise somber restraint to enjoy rich and festive pastries. Even the Church offers a special dispensation to allow for corned beef and cabbage when St. Patrick’s Day falls on a Friday, so I am here granting you dispensation allowing you to have a zeppole for San Giuseppe, even if you have given up sweets for Lent. It is, after all, but one day a year. For my people, these pastries are perhaps the highlight of March. You have an entire nation behind you.

As for Seth and me, we will be heading to Joseph’s Market in nearby Palm Beach Gardens. It will, most likely, be absolutely crazy there today, but that’s part of the appeal. We Italians are quite fond of name days, and on the Feast of San Giuseppe, everyone named Joseph or Joe or Josephine or any variant thereof celebrates his or her name day. Even Joseph’s Market. If it’s anything like last year, the aroma of sausages and peppers will be wafting through the store, and there will be someone belting out Neopolitan songs to live musical accompaniment, and maybe a few Frank Sinatra songs and Dean Martin songs for good measure, and people will carry on conversations at times from one end of a store aisle to another, for this is how my people communicate best, by shouting, even if we are just asking how much something costs or paying someone a compliment. And if we are not shouting, we will talk and gesture. Even I––a quiet man who does not carry on conversations across spaces greater than three or four feet––cannot seem to help from gesturing. The hands speak louder than the tongue sometimes. Imagine, a small store filled with hundreds of these people. And the great bulk of them at the bakery counter, ordering zeppole by the dozen. It is the polar opposite of visiting the Finnish bakery for cardamom-scented pulla on St. Urho’s Day.

But these are my people and I love them and the zeppole of San Giuseppe are what make March worthwhile. March, the month that Garrison Keillor once described as “the month God created to show people who do not drink what a hangover feels like.” A good zeppole can make your March worthwhile.

 

Zeppole e Sfinci

Images: Zeppole and sfinci, above. The zeppole are more popular; the sfinci at this bakery are identified by green candied cherries. Top: “Stasera Zeppole” translates to “Tonight Zeppole.” The photograph of a baker’s storefront window was taken by Giovanni Dall’Orto in Syracuse, Sicily.

 

Céad míle fáilte

Fairyhouse

A hundred thousand welcomes! That’s the translation from the Gaelic of the title of today’s chapter, a traditional Irish toast, quite proper for today, St. Patrick’s Day. There will be a lot of toasting today, to be sure. St. Patrick is sacred to Ireland, and as they say, everyone is at least a little Irish on St. Patrick’s Day. In this house, we’ll be eating the traditional corned beef and cabbage and soda bread, though oysters or shepherd’s pie or bangers and mash would be just as traditional. Take your pick. The day is widely celebrated with the wearing of the green and plenty of iconic imagery: shamrocks, harps, and shillelaghs, leprechauns and pots o’gold.

Patrick was a fourth century saint. He was born in Britain but was captured as a young man and taken to Ireland as a slave. He eventually escaped, made his way by sea to Gaul and became a priest there. He was made a bishop and soon after began to have visions suggesting he return to Ireland to spread the faith, which he did. One story tells of how he explained the Holy Trinity to the people of Ireland through the three leaves of the shamrock. He is most famous, however, for driving the snakes from Ireland. Whether it be by the hand of Patrick or not, there are to this day no snakes in Ireland, at least not in the wild. Some, however, think the story of Patrick driving the snakes from Ireland is more a metaphor for his driving the old Celtic gods and goddesses from the island, replacing the Old Ways with Christian beliefs.

But Ireland is a place of mystery, and if the story of St. Patrick and the snakes is indeed about the Old Ways and not about snakes, then it’s not true that they’re completely driven away, for there are plenty of these old mysteries still at play there, and some of the most fascinating stories, I think, revolve around the fairy folk: the stuff of legend, and yet there are those who firmly believe in the stories and their power. And St. Patrick’s Day, in particular, is a day that is best celebrated with stories and poems and songs of this place. So make your traditional Irish dinner, and pour some Jameson’s or some Guinness or Harp. But be sure, too, there is fiddle music, and something to read or recite.

Here in town tonight, over at St. Bernard’s, in the rectory after his meal, Father Seamus will certainly be pouring a glass of something and reciting Yeats. He is a man who loves to recite poetry to the congregation, and William Butler Yeats, the great poet of his long-ago homeland, is one of his favorites. Tonight, it could be any of his poems of Ireland. Seamus knows so many of them by heart, and perhaps tonight it will be this one:

Where dips the rocky highland
Of Sleuth Wood in the lake,
There lies a leafy island
Where flapping herons wake
The drowsy water rats;
There we’ve hid our faery vats,
Full of berrys
And of reddest stolen cherries.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world’s more full of weeping than you can understand.

Where the wave of moonlight glosses
The dim gray sands with light,
Far off by furthest Rosses
We foot it all the night,
Weaving olden dances
Mingling hands and mingling glances
Till the moon has taken flight;
To and fro we leap
And chase the frothy bubbles,
While the world is full of troubles
And anxious in its sleep.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world’s more full of weeping than you can understand.

Where the wandering water gushes
From the hills above Glen-Car,
In pools among the rushes
That scarce could bathe a star,
We seek for slumbering trout
And whispering in their ears
Give them unquiet dreams;
Leaning softly out
From ferns that drop their tears
Over the young streams.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world’s more full of weeping than you can understand.

Away with us he’s going,
The solemn-eyed:
He’ll hear no more the lowing
Of the calves on the warm hillside
Or the kettle on the hob
Sing peace into his breast,
Or see the brown mice bob
Round and round the oatmeal chest.
For he comes, the human child,
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world’s more full of weeping than he can understand.

The poem is “The Stolen Child.” Father Seamus loves it because it reminds him so intensely of the home he left behind when he crossed the western ocean and came to America. And as much as he loves it here, Ireland is always in his heart, and the world, he knows, is indeed full of weeping. St. Patrick’s Day is bittersweet for Seamus. Fairy folk are fewer and farther between here, and sometimes he feels a bit himself like a stolen child, removed from his homeland. But tonight, Seamus gets to celebrate that place. We all do, because we’re all Irish on St. Patrick’s Day. Céad míle fáilte!

 

This chapter of the Convivio Book of Days is a re-worked version of one published originally for St. Patrick’s Day, 2014. The image then and the image today is of a fairy house I stumbled upon at the base of a tree in a woods in Maine some years ago. Certainly some fairy folk exist there, too. Good to know.