Monthly Archives: August 2016

Cucuzza, Assunta, & Ferragosto

Cucuzza

I spent a couple of hours yesterday, the 14th of August, in pursuit of cucuzza longa, the odd, obscure vegetable that Italians love to cook for the Feast of the Assumption. My best hope, I thought, would be the Italian market up in Palm Beach Gardens. That’s not close by.

“Why don’t you just call before you go?” Seth suggested. I thought about it. In my head, I conjured a teenage girl at the market answering the phone. I’d ask, “Do you have cucuzza longa?” and she would say, “I’m sorry, what?” “Cucuzza longa,” I would say again. “You know, the long green vegetable that’s kind of like zucchini, but really it’s a gourd. For the Assumption. You know. Don’t you?”

Of course she wouldn’t know. Cucuzza longa is one of the bizarre Mediterranean things our ancestors left behind in the Old Country that didn’t quite translate to their new home. But a few of them longed for these things even after they set foot on American soil, and they continued to grow them in their backyard gardens. My grandfather did, anyway, and so did Rosa, the old woman with the rough hands that my mom would buy vegetables from each summer. Rosa would wrap all our purchases in newspaper and twine. The cucuzza, I remember, would stick out of the paper; there was too much vegetable, in that case, to wrap completely.

So I drove up to the market instead, feeling not very hopeful but at the same time half expecting to see a big, special display of cucuzza awaiting me as I walked through the doors. Alas, no luck. (The photo, in case you’re wondering, is a random find from the Internet––thank you Unknown Cucuzza Photographer.)

My grandmother was born on the 15th of August, 1898; her parents, my great-grandparents, gave her the name Assunta, for she was born on Azzunzione, the Feast of the Assumption, which comes every 15th of August. It is a holy day of obligation for us Catholics. The Church in America moves the date around so that it falls on a Sunday each year, but in Italy it remains the 15th of August, its proper day, and a national holiday. It is, as well, the start of Ferragosto, a time when most Italians close up shop and head to the seaside, a practice that goes back to the country’s Ancient Roman roots. The name Ferragosto, in fact, is derived from the Latin Feriae Augusti (Holidays of the Emperor Augustus).

The cucuzza longa in the picture above are each, no doubt, upwards of three feet long. They’re gourds, not squashes, and the plant’s flowers are white, not yellow like squash flowers. They can grow straight as bowling pins, yet some grow into curvy serpentine shapes. We peel them, cut them into long strips, and cook them up with a scramble of eggs, parmesan cheese, and lots of flat-leaf Italian parsley. Some fresh olive oil and salt and pepper complete the dish. Paired with a crusty loaf of bread, it is a very good meal, and it is traditional for the Feast of the Assumption (and for Grandma’s birthday). If you know of a source here in South Florida, please let me know. Next year, though, my plan is to grow my own cucuzza in my summer garden, right next to the okra and the sunflowers.

August 15th brings another transition of late summer into fall: the dog star, Sirius, has been rising together with the sun each morning for the past six weeks and now Sirius begins to emerge from the sun’s bright light and heat to rise independently. This six-week joining of stellar forces each summer is known as the Dog Days of Summer, a time when days are thought to be the sultriest. This year, here in Florida at least, that was certainly the case. Tomorrow, with Sirius’s first independent rising in weeks, the Dog Days are over, the Dog Days are done. For another year, at least.

 

 

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Bon Festival: Obon

Bon No Tsuki

Here in late summer comes another celebration honoring those who have gone before us: in Japan, it is the time of Obon. It is a celebration familiar to us here in South Florida thanks to the presence of the Morikami Museum in Delray Beach. Although I do have a bone to pick with the Morikami these days, now that they’ve moved their Obon celebration to October and renamed it “Lantern Festival”. (What the… ? You can’t just move traditional celebrations around like that!) In this strange green land where things can change so rapidly and so immensely (someone once attributed Florida’s malleability to its sandy soil, which can be so easily bulldozed and sculpted… an idea that seems to hold some truth), I get a bit wistful about Obon.

Back when the Morikami first started its Obon Festival, it was a pretty quiet affair, and it was so beautiful. The beauty seemed to be dripping from the pine trees, which most often at Obon were dripping with rain, too. The celebration was outdoors, of course, because Obon is an outdoor event. The festival began in the late afternoon, for it is at heart a festival of the night, and here, in late summer, it rains most afternoons: it is the daily respiration of the land. I would have the scent of pennyroyal on me: pennyroyal to keep the mosquitoes at bay. In a clearing amongst the dripping pines would be the yagura, an elevated platform, painted with red and white stripes, on which taiko drummers and flutists perform. Illuminated lanterns were strung from the yagura and lines of dancers performed bon odori––traditional folk dances––moving in circular patterns around it. The dancers danced to the rhythm of the drums, but sometimes they danced to recorded music: traditional Japanese folk songs with strange cadences that filled the thick Florida air, and there were traditional motions that were part of the dances––dances like “Coal Miners’ Dance,” in which the dancers journeyed around the yagura with a shoveling motion, taking a few steps forward and almost just as many back. Their progress around the yagura was always very slow and languid… the rhythm of late summer.

Nearby, also in the pines, the street fair: the ennichi, where you could buy food and fresh lemonade and toys and all manner of things. So much to buy! One Obon I bought a set of small woodcut prints tied up in string. Electric lanterns were strung up throughout the pine trees at the ennichi and near the yagura, and that, too, was a beautiful sight. But anticipation grew as the sun grew heavy at the western horizon, for we all knew that once darkness fell, there would be the other lanterns––candlelit paper lanterns, set upon the water. Hundreds of them, certainly; thousands perhaps, illuminated and cast out upon Morikami Pond. In Japan, Obon always concludes this way, for Obon is a celebration of the dead returning to the land of the living for a brief spell, to have some fun again with the living, and when it is over, the spirits return to the other shore aboard these lanterns. It is a breathtaking and spellbinding sight, as they drift silently away. We would stand there, at the water’s edge or as close to it as we could get, watching and thinking, “See you next year.” Any method we have to keep open the channels of communication is all right by me.

My wistfulness about Obon goes back to those early days when the Morikami was small and so was the celebration. And I suppose this is how wistfulness generally works: holidays seemed better when we were younger. But the Morikami grew up into a major museum and the Morikami’s Obon festival grew and grew in popularity to the point where it was hardly fun anymore. Lots of people, yes, but in Japan, Obon is a celebration that goes on for two or three days, and maybe the Morikami could have followed those ways as a device to spread out the crowds. Eventually they began taking very good care of us, too: they built a shelter to protect us all from the summer rains, but in the process of protecting us, they took away the sky and the stars and separated us from the majestic pines. And now they are protecting us from the heat and humidity by moving the celebration from August to October. I’m sure Lantern Festival at the Morikami is lovely… but it’s not Obon.

In Japan, Obon is coming to a close about now, probably tonight. Some regions may have celebrated Obon as early as July. Much with local Obon ways depend on regional customs and with the use of varied calendars, lunar and solar. The Florida celebration was based on the Morikami celebration, and so Obon for me is the August one. Eventually, I suppose, folks here will get accustomed to the Lantern Festival of October and think of Obon as October, as well. And I will be a crotchety old man shaking my fist, yelling, “No, no, damnit! It’s in August!”

One Obon, when it was not possible to go to the celebration, a friend and I made our own lanterns: he made one and so did I. We each cut a block of wood and set it inside a paper bag, upon which we wrote messages in deepest dark black sumi ink. I wrote to my grandparents. We had no yagura, no dances, and no ennichi street fair. But when the sun sank low and night fell upon the land, we went outside to the pond behind my family’s home and we lit our lanterns and set them out to sail. We watched for a while as they drifted further away, two lights illuminated on the water, making their way toward the distant shore.

Image: “Bon no tsuki” (Bon Festival Moon) by Tsukioka Yoshitoshi. Woodcut print, late 1800s [Public domain] via Wikimedia Commons.

 

Simple Gifts

Gift Angel

When Seth and I returned to Maine last month for the first time in six years, our sense of homecoming included not just the actual home we stayed in, but the place itself: the woods, the winding roads, the people, the places we would go. And though we only got to the Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community once while we were there, that place, which the Shakers call Chosen Land, will always be a place that is somehow home, too.

My first summer internship at the Shaker Press was in 1996. I remember arriving there my first day, completely unsure of what to expect. Brother Arnold Hadd and I had exchanged a couple of letters and the Community agreed that I could come work there on a book project for the summer, but that was about it, save for deciding our subject matter: We would make a book about Deacon James Holmes, the first printer there at Chosen Land. I arrived in early June, fresh from Alabama where I had been living since the winter before, to a land where the burgeoning summer was still a bit unsteady on its feet. I met Brother Arnold; he showed me the print shop: it was in the old dairy cellar of the brick Dwelling House, and it held a Vandercook press that he only used as an imposing stone, a Golding Jobber press that would prove to be the workhorse of our project, and some type cabinets. The type was mostly Bulmer (a close relative of Baskerville) and an odd Victorian font called Graybar. There were other decorative fonts in slanted cases, and there was some wood type, and a defunct refrigerator that held tins of oil-based inks.

But before any printing, we needed a story. And so I spent weeks in the Shaker Library, researching. I read everything I could find about Deacon James and I looked at everything he had printed. Deacon James first came to the Sabbathday Lake Community as a young man in the late 1700s but it turns out he didn’t become a printer until he was in his 80s. Someone had given the Community some metal type; Deacon James decided the only thing to do was to build himself a press so he could use the type. He built the press in the garden shed, where it remained until the 1950s, when it was tossed out during one of Brother Delmer Wilson’s big clean-ups. In the library, I got to handle all the small books and broadsides that the good deacon had printed… and I got to look at the Shaker Library’s collection of beautiful gift drawings: drawings that were made by Shakers through inspiration they received as gifts from Shakers who had gone before them. They are amazing, each and every one, and Brother Arnold and I decided to use details from these drawings to illustrate our own book about Deacon James.

The board shears / paper cutter was located in the Sisters’ Shop, one of the other beautiful Shaker buildings in the village, the one that also houses the Herb Department, where the Shakers have been packing culinary herbs and herbal teas since 1799. Whenever I had to cut paper for a project, whether for the book or for some other print project, the very air I breathed was spiced with the fragrance of herbs: barrels and barrels of them in the work room, and an attic full of herbs hung to dry. And when I came up with the idea of making our book look like it was found in Deacon James’ old garden shed, Brother Arnold suggested we make a dye from the old butternut trees by the Trustees’ Office. So we gathered up the nuts and boiled them up into a dye in the old Shaker Laundry, in the basement of the Sisters’ Shop, in sight of one of the first washing machines ever made. The Shakers were the first to make washing machines, and they came up with many other conveniences that eventually became part of our everyday modern lives. (This one looks nothing like a contemporary washing machine, though: It’s made of granite and wood. I’m sure it saved plenty of time in its day, but they don’t use it anymore!)

I don’t remember which building we were in when we dyed the book covers and the seed packets we printed for the book, but I do remember we were working on the floor beside a large loom. And we bound the books anywhere we could, sharing the work: Seth and I bound some at the saltbox where we were living; Brother Arnold and the other Shaker sisters and brothers bound the rest when they could in the Dwelling House. And just as suddenly as my summer had begun, it was just about wrapping up: it was early August by then, and my first semester in the MFA in the Book Arts program at the University of Alabama was about to begin. But our book still needed a proper ushering into the world. As it turns out, one of the most important days of the year for the Shaker Community is the Sixth of August, or, as they call it, The Glorious Sixth. It seemed an auspicious day for the book’s unveiling, for it marks the day in 1774 when their founder, Mother Ann Lee, arrived in America from Manchester, England, with a small band of followers to settle here and start life anew. They eventually ended up in Watervliet, New York, and from there the Shaker way spread. At the peak of the Shaker movement in the 1800s, there were more than 6,000 Shakers living in communities throughout New England and Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, and even a short-lived community here in Florida. For all of these Shakers, August 6th would be held as a special day in the Shaker year.

It continues so today. These days, the Sabbathday Lake Community is the only active Shaker community left in the world, and there are three Shakers there at Chosen Land: Brother Arnold, Sister Frances, and Sister June. There were more that day in 1996, but since then, some have passed on, and some have left the Community. In fact, many have come and gone over the years, trying the Shaker life. And there are friends. So many of them. Friends who are more like family, and so any gathering at Chosen Land is a big, bustling affair. The preparations for that Glorious Sixth celebration in 1996 were all hustle and hubbub until the supper bell rang, and supper was outside, at wooden picnic tables on the lawn outside the Dwelling House. I probably had trouble buttoning my trousers that night, because the Shakers fed me well all summer long. Brother Arnold and I unveiled our book, presenting a copy of it to each brother and sister. We called it Collected and Compiled by J.H.: The Story, in Many Voices, of Deacon James Holmes, for in researching the book, I realized that the good deacon’s story is best told as a community, which is the basis for Chosen Land and Shakerism in general.

After supper and after our book unveiling, with the setting sun, the magic of the evening truly began. Our small band ventured off to the 1794 Shaker Meeting House, the heart of the village, across the road. We entered as is the Shaker custom, women through one door, men through the other, and we sat on our opposite sides of the room, facing each other, as is also the Shaker custom for each Shaker Meeting. And it is deeply ingrained in my memory what happened next, as the light continued to fade into the darkness of evening, as the dim and flickering lamplight became the only source of light: in the faces of the sisters and other women across from me, I felt I could discern the faces of Shakers throughout time. We may have entered the Meetinghouse in 1996, but it didn’t seem to remain 1996. Sacred spirit filled that sacred space. We sang the song the Shakers always sing for this night: a song called “Mother;” it calls to mind the early history of the Shaker movement. It begins with the words At Manchester in England, this blessed fire began / And like a flame in stubble, from house to house it ran. Certainly tonight Brother Arnold, Sister Frances, and Sister June, the three Shakers that remain in this world, will be singing this old song, and I know they will be joined by an extended gathering of friends. The friends will be from “the world” but still will feel a bit like family, the extended family that radiates out from the Shakers. Chosen Land is a bit like home, after all, and even though Seth and I won’t be present, we will remember all who gather there, especially as the light fades this evening.

 

Image: One of the illustrations from our book Collected and Compiled by J.H.: The Story, in Many Voices, of Deacon James Holmes, First Printer of the Sabbathday Lake Shakers. It is a detail from one of those Shaker gift drawings I found in the Shaker Library, circa 1830 to 1860, a period of Shaker history known as the Era of Manifestations, a time of very active spiritual revivalism that expressed itself mainly in song and art. The Shakers who drew these gift drawings felt they were acting as medium between the spiritual world and this world, receiving gifts that they then transferred to paper and shared with their Shaker brethren and sisters.

 

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