Category Archives: Christmas

Good Old St. Macaroon

St_Macarius_of_Egypt

EIGHTH DAY of CHRISTMAS:
St. Macarius’s Day

Today we celebrate St. Macarius of Alexandria, known for his extreme asceticism (a word dangerously close to aestheticism, no?). But before he became so hardened against the things of this world, Macarius was a confectioner, and so he is known as a patron saint of cooks, confectioners and pastry chefs. This, as you might guess, is the St. Macarius we are most interested in on this Eighth Day of Christmas. Some people have a hard time saying St. Macarius, and so he has also been known over the ages as St. Macaroon––fitting enough for a confectioner, I’d say.

Macarius was born in Alexandria in the early fourth century and it is in that fabled city where he made his living selling candies and pastries. In about 335, he left the bustle of the city to become a monk, and eventually made his way to a monastery in the desert (a word dangerously close to dessert, no?) and lived the life of a hermit from there on out. He ate very little: raw vegetables most days, and on special days, a bit of bread dipped in oil.

There is a rather nice story attributed to St. Macarius, a story he is said to have told his fellow monks in the monastery, who were interested in perhaps moving out of the desert and into the city in an attempt to reach more souls. Macarius spoke of a barber in a small town who eked out a decent living by charging three coins for a shave. He earned enough this way to sustain himself and his family and to even save a little extra for his old age. But he heard a rumor that barbers in the nearby city were charging a lot more than three coins for the same service. He thought long and hard about this, and finally, he made the decision to sell all he had in the small town and move to the city and set up shop there, where he could earn a larger profit for his services. And so he did.

Sure enough, at the end of his first day in the city, he had earned more than he had ever earned in the small town, and the barber was quite elated. And after closing up shop, he headed for the market to buy food and provisions for his family, but he found that everything  in the big city market was much more expensive than it had been in the small town. Indeed, he ended up with no money at all in his pocket that day––a trend that continued each day after. Finally, the barber decided it would be best to return to his native town, where at least he made a small amount of progress each day in his savings.

With this story, St. Macarius swayed his fellow monks to stay in the quiet solitude of the desert. And of course there is a lesson in this story for all of us: a lesson of quiet patience, the understanding that sometimes what is best for us is right where we are.

St. Macarius became so devoted to his asceticism that he began to take things to some extreme ends. He once spent twenty days out in the open air without sleep, a self-inflicted punishment for accidentally killing a mosquito that had bit him. I’ve always been wary of extremists, and so for me, the best celebration of St. Macarius’s Day for this Eighth Day of Christmas is a celebration that calls to mind his place as a patron saint of confectioners and cooks. It’s a great day, I think, for enjoying something sweet. Think of all the joy that confectioners bring us. Certainly Macarius brought much joy to the people of Alexandria when he was selling candies and confections there. And so on this Eighth Day of Christmas, remember St. Macarius, and take joy (and maybe have a macaroon or a macaron.)

 

Image: St. Macarius of Egypt, from an old Ukranian codex. He seems to be saying, with his hands extended in front of him, “No thanks, no dessert for me.” [Public domain] via Wikimedia Commons.

 

Wes Hel

Christmas-Recipes

SEVENTH DAY of CHRISTMAS:
New Year’s Day

The hour is late. We were up much longer than we should have been, eating New Year’s Eve zeppole with the family. With sincere apologies, I must get to bed, but before I do, I offer you the gift of last year’s Convivio Book of Days chapter for this Seventh Day of Christmas. Here we begin the six remaining days, all crossed over the threshold of the new year. You’ll awake to a much quieter celebration of wassailing the apple trees (but indeed you can wassail whatever tree you want; we haven’t any apple trees in Lake Worth). You’ll find these remaining days of Christmas growing more and more contemplative and quiet… at least until Yule’s boisterous closing at Twelfth Night. And so good night… and enjoy this short piece. If you can, make the wassail. It’s delicious.

It is an old custom on New Year’s Day to toast each other, as well as the apple trees in the orchard. The toast is “Wassail!” and the drink is wassail, too, and here’s a recipe for a good wassail: Pour the contents of two large bottles of beer or ale (about 4 pints) into a pot and place it on the stove to heat slowly. Add about a half cup sugar and a healthy dose of mulling spices. (If you don’t have mulling spices on hand, you can use cinnamon sticks and whole cloves… though the mulling spices lend a more interesting flavor.) Add a half pint each of orange juice and pineapple juice, as well as the juice of a large lemon. Peel and slice two apples and place the apple slices into the pot, too. Heat the brew but don’t let it boil, then pour the heated wassail into a punchbowl to serve.

Steaming punches like this were quite popular in olden times, even here in the States, and I think it’s about time we bring these festive drinks back. It’s with just such drinks that one gets to use hearty words like “Huzzah!” and “Wassail!” Wassail comes to us from the Old English Wes Hel: “Be of good health!” To really keep the custom, share the wassail with those in attendance but also take the steaming bowl out to the orchard and toast the apple trees and share some with the oldest or biggest tree in the grove. Some folks pour the wassail on the trunk of the tree, while others dip the lower branches into the wassail bowl, and others may place cider-soaked toast or cake in the branches of the tree. All of which are invocations of magic meant to encourage a good crop of apples next summer.

Most wassailing is done at the noon hour, but there’s no reason not to do it later in the day or in the evening. The apple trees won’t mind. Happy New Year! Wes Hel!

 

Image: A color plate from Warne’s Model Housekeeper: A Manual of Domestic Economy in All Its Branches, London: Frederick Warne, 1882. [Public domain] via Wikimedia Commons. The wassail bowl is there, along with other features of the Yuletide season.

 

Endings, Beginnings

Father_Time

SIXTH DAY of CHRISTMAS
New Year’s Eve, Hogmanay, First Footing

The old year now away is fled, the new year it is entered. In our journey through the Twelve Days of Christmas we come now to the last of those in the old year. The balance will be in the new, and in this way, Christmastide bridges past and future: Twelve days outside ordinary time with one foot in the year that’s dying and one foot in the year that’s being born. We come now to January, the month the Romans named for Janus, the god with two faces who looks both back on the past and forward to the future.

And while there is much to tell about the traditions of New Year’s Eve, I don’t think I can write about them any better this year than I did on this night two years ago. The hour is late and a wiser man probably would have these things written for you well in advance… but I have never been known for my wisdom, and while I should have been writing, I’m afraid Seth and I have been making our house as fair as we are able… which happens to be one common tradition for the turning of the year. It’s not necessarily ours, but this just happened to be a good day and night for such things. If I am to stay up to welcome the new year at midnight, I must get to bed now. So here now is that 2014 New Year’s Eve chapter for you to get reacquainted with. And I’m serious about the invitation at the end. Here we go:

The New Year’s Eves I remember as a child were for the most part already emptied of the traditions of the Old World. New Year’s Eve usually was celebrated with all the aunts and uncles and cousins and grandparents at either our house or at Aunt Mary and Uncle Phil’s house, and there would usually be a very large Italian hero, perhaps six feet long, and there were potato chips and Guy Lombardo and his orchestra would be on TV playing “Auld Lange Syne” at precisely the right moment. Guy Lombardo gave way eventually to Dick Clark and Dick Clark eventually to who knows who now. Gathering around the TV is, I’m certain, my least favorite part of New Year’s Eve, but it has always been thus in my family, and so when we gather, this is what we do.

In earlier days, Dad says, Grandma Cutrone would come round through the crowd and make sure everyone ate a spoonful of lentils and a dozen grapes at midnight on New Year’s Eve, and this, to me, is more like it. Who needs to watch a glittery dropping ball on TV when you have more interesting customs like a spoonful of lentils and a handful of grapes? The lentils are an old Italian ritual. Each little lentil symbolizes a coin, so the idea is eat lots of lentils, gather lots of riches in the new year. Capo d’anno, as the Italians call New Year’s, is all about good fortune ahead and also about clearing out the dross: All over Italy, old unwanted things are tossed out of windows at the stroke of midnight. It is not a night for midnight strolls, for all manner of items are tossed out of windows, even really big things like appliances. To have an old dishwasher fall toward you from a second floor window is something you’ll want to avoid. Best to stay indoors with the revelers in this case.

Grandma Cutrone is long gone and so are the lentils for New Year’s Eve in my family, but on my mother’s side, there the tradition was for homemade zeppole: fried dough, essentially, but the dough is enriched with eggs and this is the only night each year that we do this. The zeppole are dusted in confectioners’ sugar or drizzled with honey for a sweet year ahead. So tonight there will for sure be zeppole. And still at midnight for each person a dozen grapes, one for each month of the year, and a glass of champagne to toast the new year properly.

Scotland is perhaps the place where the new year rings in the loudest, for New Year’s is the height of the Christmas season there, bigger perhaps than even Christmas itself. The celebration there is known as Hogmanay, which is believed to to be derived from the French au gui menez, “lead to the mistletoe,” and this suggests a very ancient and pre-Christian derivation of most Hogmanay traditions, for it leads directly back to the Celtic druids and the mistletoe that was sacred to their ceremonies. First Footing is an aspect of Hogmanay that feels particularly like a magic spell: The first person to step across the threshold of the front doorway after midnight is this First Footer, and it is hoped that this person would be a red- or dark-haired man carrying whisky or mistletoe or, in some cases, bread, salt and coal. In this case he would kiss all the women and shake the hands of all the men before placing the coal on the fire and the bread and salt on the table and then he’d kiss all the women and shake hands with all the men once more on his way out. A ritual like this goes not without a bit of preplanning, but, as with most rituals, it’s got to be done right if the magic is to work. The goal here is prosperity and good luck, much like the lentils and grapes of Italy… but the lentils and grapes seem less complicated!

Traditions for this night vary across the globe, and we’d love to hear about yours, so please do share them. And may peace, prosperity and good luck be yours and ours in the new year. Good things to us all: good health, good spirit, creativity and wealth. Happy New Year.

 

Image: Father Time and Baby New Year from Frolic & Fun, 1897. [Public domain] via Wikimedia Commons.