Category Archives: Christmas

St. Macaroon? St. Macaron?

Macaron

EIGHTH DAY of CHRISTMAS:
St. Macarius’s Day

I have known of macaroons––the chewy, delectable treat made from shredded cocoanut––for as long as I can remember. Only in the last couple of years have I learnt of the macaron––the small French confection made in lovely pastel shades, typically sandwiched together with a filling inside of ganache or jam. They are both very different and yet somewhat the same: they both contain almonds, whether in ground or paste form, and little or no flour. Both are delicious. And both, I would think, have a similar etymological background… and quite a long history in the foodways of old cultures.

On this Eighth Day of Christmas I often think of macaroons (and now macarons) even though I’m not necessarily eating them, for there are still plenty of Christmas cookies to eat. The day is given to the Feast of St. Macarius of Egypt, a fourth century saint from Alexandria who lived the latter part of his life as a hermit in the desert, eating only raw vegetables on most days. On special days, he ate a bit of bread dipped in oil. He was an ascetic and, by the sound of things, not all that much fun. However, before choosing his more extreme lifestyle, Macarius had been a confectioner in Alexandria. For this reason he is known as a patron saint of cooks, confectioners and pastry chefs. This, as you might guess, is the St. Macarius we are most interested in on this Eighth Day of Christmas.

Some people have a hard time saying St. Macarius, and so he has also been known over the ages as St. Macaroon (perhaps St. Macaron in France?)––fitting enough for a confectioner, I’d say. And so for this Eighth Day of Christmas we are encouraged to enjoy the sweet things in life. So go on, have a macaroon. Or a macaron. Or anything that sweetens your day. Macarius the Confectioner would smile upon this. Just don’t tell Macarius the Ascetic.

 

Image: Set a piece of paper or a letter or a magazine on the floor, and Haden the Convivio Shopcat will, sooner or later, sit upon it. You can bet your bottom dollar. Those are her two orange paws atop the magazine that first introduced me to macarons: Martha Stewart Living, March 2014.

 

Tagged

Wassail, Wassail

Heinrich_Brandes_-_Eine_Bowle_eine_Ananas_und_ein_Teppich_auf_einem_Tisch

SEVENTH DAY of CHRISTMAS
New Year’s Day

The toast “Wassail!” is a hearty one. Go on, say it. It sounds a lot more magical than the toasts we tend to use nowadays upon lifting a glass in good company. “Cheers!” just doesn’t have the same potency as “Wassail!” Indeed, wassail is derived from the Old English Wes Hel: Be of good health. It is both a toast and a drink, and on this first day of the year, this seventh day of Christmas, wassailing is customary. We wassail each other, we wassail the trees from whence comes our wine, our cider, our ale. All of it––the transformation of seed to tree, of juice to libation––a bit of magic in the form of everyday alchemy.

There are many kinds of wassail made from all sorts of ingredients, but here’s the recipe we share with you each year for a good wassail: Pour the contents of two large bottles of beer or ale (about 4 pints) into a pot and place it on the stove to heat slowly. Add about a half cup sugar and a healthy dose of mulling spices. (If you don’t have mulling spices on hand, you can use cinnamon sticks and whole cloves… though the mulling spices lend a more interesting flavor.) Add a half pint each of orange juice and pineapple juice, as well as the juice of a large lemon. Peel and slice two apples and place the apple slices into the pot, too. Heat the brew but don’t let it boil, then pour the heated wassail into a punch bowl to serve.

Punches of this nature were more popular in times past, but I think it’s high time for a revival. I love the ceremony of a punch, from the concocting to the ladeling of the steaming drink from a punch bowl into cups. The true custom for the day would have us gather around an apple tree at noon with our wassail punch and drink a hearty wassail to each other and to the tree. Usually it’s the oldest apple tree in the orchard. We don’t have apple trees here in Lake Worth, so here we know all about improvising; feel free to improvise yourself. It’s the spirit of wassailing that is most important and not so much the small details. It’s quite all right if you can’t get out there at noon, too. Here’s an old song to sing or shout out as you wassail the trees:

Here’s to thee, old apple tree
Whence thou may’st bud and
whence thou may’st blow,
And whence thou may’st
bear apples enow.

Hats full, Caps full, Bushel,
bushel sacks full,
And my pockets full, too!
Huzzah!

The wish is for abundance. And so on this first day of the new year, we wish you all abundance and good health, too. Wes Hel! Wassail! And Huzzah as well!

 

Image: “Eine Bowle, eine Ananas und ein Teppich auf einem Tisch” ( a bowl of punch, with a pineapple and a carpet on a table) by Georg Heinrich Brandes. Oil on canvas, c. 1800s. [Public domain] via Wikimedia Commons.

 

Tagged

Endings, Beginnings

Father_Time

SIXTH DAY of CHRISTMAS
New Year’s Eve, Hogmanay, First Footing

The old year now away is fled, the new year it is entered. In our journey through the Twelve Days of Christmas we come now to the last of those in the old year. The balance will be in the new, and in this way, Christmastide bridges past and future: Twelve days outside ordinary time with one foot in the year that’s dying and one foot in the year that’s being born. We come now to January, the month the Romans named for Janus, the god with two faces who looks both back on the past and forward to the future.

And while there is much to tell about the traditions of New Year’s Eve, I don’t think I can write about them any better this year than I did last year. The hour is late and a wiser man probably would have these things written for you well in advance… but I have never been known for my wisdom, and while I should have been writing, I’m afraid Seth and I have been baking lace cookies and drinking a bottle of home brewed Convivio Stout. The stout was good, the lace cookies sublime, and here is last year’s chapter for you to get reacquainted with. And I’m serious about the invitation at the end. Here we go:

The New Year’s Eves I remember as a child were for the most part already emptied of the traditions of the Old World. New Year’s Eve usually was celebrated with all the aunts and uncles and cousins and grandparents at either our house or at Aunt Mary and Uncle Phil’s house, and there would usually be a very large Italian hero, perhaps six feet long, and there were potato chips and Guy Lombardo and his orchestra would be on TV playing “Auld Lange Syne” at precisely the right moment. Guy Lombardo gave way eventually to Dick Clark and Dick Clark eventually to who knows who now. Gathering around the TV is, I’m certain, my least favorite part of New Year’s Eve, but it has always been thus in my family, and so when we gather, this is what we do.

In earlier days, Dad says, Grandma Cutrone would come round through the crowd and make sure everyone ate a spoonful of lentils and a dozen grapes at midnight on New Year’s Eve, and this, to me, is more like it. Who needs to watch a glittery dropping ball on TV when you have more interesting customs like a spoonful of lentils and a handful of grapes? The lentils are an old Italian ritual. Each little lentil symbolizes a coin, so the idea is eat lots of lentils, gather lots of riches in the new year. Capo d’anno, as the Italians call New Year’s, is all about good fortune ahead and also about clearing out the dross: All over Italy, old unwanted things are tossed out of windows at the stroke of midnight. It is not a night for midnight strolls, for all manner of items are tossed out of windows, even really big things like appliances. To have an old dishwasher fall toward you from a second floor window is something you’ll want to avoid. Best to stay indoors with the revelers in this case.

Grandma Cutrone is long gone and so are the lentils for New Year’s Eve in my family, but on my mother’s side, there the tradition was for homemade zeppole: fried dough, essentially, but the dough is enriched with eggs and this is the only night each year that we do this. The zeppole are dusted in confectioners’ sugar or drizzled with honey for a sweet year ahead. So tonight there will for sure be zeppole. And still at midnight for each person a dozen grapes, one for each month of the year, and a glass of champagne to toast the new year properly.

Scotland is perhaps the place where the new year rings in the loudest, for New Year’s is the height of the Christmas season there, bigger perhaps than even Christmas itself. The celebration there is known as Hogmanay, which is believed to to be derived from the French au gui menez, “lead to the mistletoe,” and this suggests a very ancient and pre-Christian derivation of most Hogmanay traditions, for it leads directly back to the Celtic druids and the mistletoe that was sacred to their ceremonies. First Footing is an aspect of Hogmanay that feels particularly like a magic spell: The first person to step across the threshold of the front doorway after midnight is this First Footer, and it is hoped that this person would be a red- or dark-haired man carrying whisky or mistletoe or, in some cases, bread, salt and coal. In this case he would kiss all the women and shake the hands of all the men before placing the coal on the fire and the bread and salt on the table and then he’d kiss all the women and shake hands with all the men once more on his way out. A ritual like this goes not without a bit of preplanning, but, as with most rituals, it’s got to be done right if the magic is to work. The goal here is prosperity and good luck, much like the lentils and grapes of Italy… but the lentils and grapes seem less complicated!

Traditions for this night vary across the globe, and we’d love to hear about yours, so please do share them. And may peace, prosperity and good luck be yours and ours in the new year. Good things to us all: good health, good spirit, creativity and wealth. Happy New Year.

 

Image: Father Time and Baby New Year from Frolic & Fun, 1897. [Public domain] via Wikimedia Commons.

 

Tagged ,