Category Archives: St. Joseph’s Day

May You Feel the Angels Bend Closer When You Call (Or, Three Saints’ Days)

So I’ve discovered what many of you may already know: there are no hard and fast rules for grieving. I find myself mostly going through my days, doing what needs doing, but feeling a bit like my gears are not aligned quite right. Inspiration is tough to come by, as is enthusiasm. There are certain things lately that make me uneasy: suburban Delray Beach, hospitals in general (I had to visit one last week for a medical test, and it felt a bit too soon), and straws: I unwrapped so many straws for my father in the last few weeks of his life, sometimes six or seven in a visit. Protein shake, orange juice, ginger ale, water… for each I would carefully tear the paper wrap from around the middle of the straw, remove one end of the wrapper while I held the other, then put the straw into his drink and remove the rest of the paper. It’s fine if my drink arrives at my table with a straw already in it, but there was an instance two weeks ago where my waitress brought me a drink and a straw on the side and as I went through those same motions again––tearing the paper, holding one end while removing the paper at the other––well… suddenly it felt too soon for straws, too.

But life goes on, of course. We’ve had quite a few celebrations with family and friends, honoring my dad, for even a funeral is a celebration of life. It is one of the ceremonies of our days, a hugely important one, I’ve found. And Dad, I’m sure he was shaking his head sometimes at his kid who was encouraging him to celebrate ancient Roman holidays and the birthdays of those who have passed. He always went along with our ways, though, maybe only because he liked a good meal. This week, though, we come to some celebrations he really enjoyed, and these will be the first traditional holiday celebrations we’ll have where he won’t be seated at the table. That will be strange, I know. But we will get through that strangeness, and we will raise our glasses to him, and we will conjure his presence as best we can. One foot in front of the other. It is what we do.

And so this week come three saints’ days: St. Patrick’s Day, the day when everyone is at least a little bit Irish; St. Urho’s Day, for the Finns; and St. Joseph’s Day, when we Italians feast (imagine that)… but mainly on one very particular pastry, the zeppole.

The day before St. Patrick’s Day, 1974, my mom and dad and sister flew from New York to Chicago to my Aunt Anne and Uncle Joe’s house. I was already there, a stowaway on the train that my grandparents had taken the week before. My dad arrived dressed head to toe in green: green leisure suit (it was 1974, after all), green shirt, green socks, and patent leather and suede green shoes. A woman in the elevator at O’Hare cried out, “He’s even got green shoes!” He was probably wearing green underwear, too.

Our St. Patrick’s Day celebrations since then mostly revolve around corned beef and cabbage and soda bread. My sister, through and through Italian, makes one mean soda bread. Now there’s something I’m looking forward to this week, and I’m sure it will inspire my mom to say what she always says about soda bread: “Why do we have to have this just once a year?” (She says the same about the Pan de Muertos we make each November for Dia de Muertos.)

For St. Joseph’s Day, we will have zeppole: dough, sometimes fried, sometimes baked, filled with custard and cherries. Sometimes we get sfinci, the same dough, but filled instead with a sweet ricotta cream, like they use in cannoli. I have to admit we’ve had quite a few already. When we were in New York last week for my father’s burial, cousins inundated us with Italian pastries, and already there were zeppole and sfinci, even in early March. The 19th of March, though, is St. Joseph’s Day, and this is the proper day to eat them.

Before both St. Patrick’s Day and St. Joseph’s Day, though, comes St. Urho’s Day on the 16th. Urho is a fictional saint, and you have to be Finnish or amongst Finns to know him. I know him only because I live here in Lake Worth, home to more Finns than anywhere but Finland. How do these things happen, I wonder? Why did so many Finns come to this town? The Finns love cardamom and smoked salmon and saunas and so many of our local homes have saunas in them because of them. And some of these very same Finns will be celebrating St. Urho, the saint who drove the grasshoppers from Finland. If this sounds a lot like the guy who drove the snakes from Ireland, well… that’s the point of this fictional saint whose day comes just before that of the more famous Patrick.

It’s been decided the family will gather here at our house for St. Patrick’s Day dinner, which means I’ll be doing the cooking, and then at my family’s home for St. Joseph’s Day dinner, and this makes me happy, that even in loss and grieving, we can come together and celebrate. There are the things that make me uneasy lately but also just as many things that carry me forward: the love I feel from family and friends, all of you included. Your words of kindness have been like a raft for me. Some music has helped me, too. My mom remembers in times of mourning when she was a kid that even listening to the radio was forbidden, but one day not long after Dad died when I was at home at my house and she was at home in hers, we were speaking on the phone and she told me to put on some music. I did. It was the new Jane Siberry recording that my nephew gave me for Christmas, the one I hadn’t opened yet. My friend Kelly suggested it was time, and she was right. It’s called Angels Bend Closer, and it, too, has been a raft for me to float upon. It was five years between this and Jane’s last major recording release, and in that space of time, she lost her father, too, and her mother. So she gets it. She always does. Dipped just a bit in darkness and melancholy, still this collection of songs is nothing but uplifting. Jane reminds me over and over again that I always have and always will be well. Perhaps you need that reminder, too.

Image: Mom and Dad at our St. Patrick’s Day dinner table, 2008. My sister brought the hats.

 

Tonight Zeppole

455_-_Siracusa_-_Cartello_in_una_pasticceria-_Foto_Giovanni_Dall'Orto_-_15-Oct-2008

And so the Finns had St. Urho’s Day this past week and the Irish had St. Patrick’s Day. But today it is St. Joseph’s Day, and here we come to a very important day to my people. For us Italians, the feast of San Giuseppe centers around food (imagine that?!) and in particular one pastry: zeppole. Any good Italian bakery worth its salt (or perhaps sugar) will be selling these pastries, which traditionally make their appearance only at this time of year, today. In the more popular bakeries, you might find rolling racks full of trays of them behind the counter; they’ll be making so many of them, they won’t possibly fit them all inside the display case.

Zeppole are pastries of fried dough, generous in size, each typically something you could fit into two open hands. They are filled with custard and often include a few cherries on top. There are also sfinci, related to zeppole, but filled with sweetened ricotta cream, perhaps with a few small chocolate chips, very much like a cannoli filling. Variations of these sweets, in name and in shape and ingredients, exist throughout Italy for the feast of San Giuseppe, but it is in the South, from where my family hails, that they are best known. Both sfinci and zeppole are pastries with histories that go back many centuries, with names that come out of the Arabic influence on the region. How far back do they go? The ancient Romans made fried pastries each year on the 17th of March in honor of Bacchus, and it is thought that the zeppole and sfinci we make today are direct descendants of those long ago sweets of springtime.

It may be Lent, but St. Joseph’s Day provides a day to step away from that otherwise somber restraint to enjoy rich and festive pastries. Even the Church offers a special dispensation to allow for corned beef and cabbage when St. Patrick’s Day falls on a Friday, so I am here granting you dispensation allowing you to have a zeppole for San Giuseppe, even if you have given up sweets for Lent. It is, after all, but one day a year. For my people, these pastries are perhaps the highlight of March. You have an entire nation behind you.

As for Seth and me, we will be heading to Joseph’s Market in nearby Palm Beach Gardens. It will, most likely, be absolutely crazy there today, but that’s part of the appeal. We Italians are quite fond of name days, and on the Feast of San Giuseppe, everyone named Joseph or Joe or Josephine or any variant thereof celebrates his or her name day. Even Joseph’s Market. If it’s anything like last year, the aroma of sausages and peppers will be wafting through the store, and there will be someone belting out Neopolitan songs to live musical accompaniment, and maybe a few Frank Sinatra songs and Dean Martin songs for good measure, and people will carry on conversations at times from one end of a store aisle to another, for this is how my people communicate best, by shouting, even if we are just asking how much something costs or paying someone a compliment. And if we are not shouting, we will talk and gesture. Even I––a quiet man who does not carry on conversations across spaces greater than three or four feet––cannot seem to help from gesturing. The hands speak louder than the tongue sometimes. Imagine, a small store filled with hundreds of these people. And the great bulk of them at the bakery counter, ordering zeppole by the dozen. It is the polar opposite of visiting the Finnish bakery for cardamom-scented pulla on St. Urho’s Day.

But these are my people and I love them and the zeppole of San Giuseppe are what make March worthwhile. March, the month that Garrison Keillor once described as “the month God created to show people who do not drink what a hangover feels like.” A good zeppole can make your March worthwhile.

 

Zeppole e Sfinci

Images: Zeppole and sfinci, above. The zeppole are more popular; the sfinci at this bakery are identified by green candied cherries. Top: “Stasera Zeppole” translates to “Tonight Zeppole.” The photograph of a baker’s storefront window was taken by Giovanni Dall’Orto in Syracuse, Sicily.

 

San Giuseppe

SanGiuseppe

Today is the feast day of St. Joseph: a pretty big deal to my people. He is one of many saints sacred to Italy and his day provides a good excuse to eat rich and festive pastries in the middle of the otherwise somber lenten season. Even the Church offers a special dispensation to allow for corned beef & cabbage on those years when St. Patrick’s Day falls on a Friday, so even if you’ve given up sweets for lent, go ahead: St. Joseph’s Day comes but once each year. Today’s chapter of the Convivio Book of Days Blog is a reprint of last year’s. The only difference is that last year, lent began much later than it did this year. Anyway, I thought this chapter was really good and I think you’ll enjoy reading it again while I go out and get some zeppole from the Italian bakery. ––John

 

It’s St. Joseph’s Day today, the 19th of March. When the Lenten season begins early, which this year it did not, St. Joseph’s Day arrives bringing a welcome respite from Lent’s bare-bones penitence in the form of decadent desserts. This year, we’re only two weeks into Lent at this point… but still, we’ll take the decadent desserts.

St. Joseph is sacred to Italy. He is a patron saint of children and of pastry chefs, both of whom typically have a fondness for sweets, and any Italian bakery worth its salt today will be selling at least a couple of pastries made especially for San Giuseppe. It’s a good sign if you walk into one such bakery today and see trays and trays of zeppole and sfinci. Both are pastries of fried dough, generous in size, each typically something you could fit into two open hands. Zeppole are filled with custard and often include a few cherries on top. Sfinci are filled with sweetened ricotta cream, perhaps with a few small chocolate chips, very much like a cannoli filling. Many Italian bakeries sell these pastries for a few weeks before and after St. Joseph’s Day, but today is their traditional day, and we take that first bite into a delectable zeppole, with the aroma of strong espresso in the air, and we thank San Giuseppe for bringing a bit of sweetness to Lent’s otherwise stark and penitent nature.

Variations of these sweets, in name and in shape and ingredients, exist throughout Italy for the feast of San Giuseppe, but it is in the South, from where my family hails, that they are best known. Both sfinci and zeppole are pastries with histories that go back many centuries, with names that come out of the Arabic influence on the region. How far back do they go? The ancient Romans made fried pastries each year on the 17th of March in honor of Bacchus, and it is thought that the zeppole and sfinci we make today are direct descendants of those springtime sweets.

Both of my grandmothers were devotees of San Giuseppe. Many years before I was born, Grandma Cutrone used to prepare an altar to St. Joseph each year for his feast day. My dad would help her set up the altar in their home, and on it Grandma would place breads and ceci beans and oranges and animal crackers for the children. There are old 8 mm black and white home movies of friends and neighbors coming in to see the altar and pay their respects. The priest would come to bless it, and Grandma Cutrone would give each person who visited an orange to take home with them.

My Grandma Assunta did not have such an altar in her home, but she would often pray to San Giuseppe, and we couldn’t leave church each Sunday before she lit the big candle at St. Joseph’s statue in the chapel. We would visit him each week there. To this day, every time I go to a church, I light a candle for her, because that’s what she would do, and it’s one of many ways I have of keeping in touch with those who came before us.

I’m glad they both loved St. Joseph so much. A good friend of ours, Father Philip Joly, recently helped me see St. Joseph in a new light. St. Joseph, who is also a patron saint of families, is almost always depicted as an old man. The truth is, though, Mary was probably just a teenager when the angel came to tell her she would be giving birth to a son, the son of God. Joseph, who was engaged to her, was probably not much older himself, and he, too, received a visit from the angel saying, “Don’t be afraid.” There he was, a young man, with a pregnant teenage wife, pregnant not by him, asked to become a father to a son that was not his. That’s a lot to swallow, no? But he supported his betrothed, and he went through with it. He had compassion, and he had faith. Joseph’s family was no ordinary family. And so when we think of San Giuseppe as the patron saint of families, we know that that extends to all families, no matter how traditional or non-traditional they may be. What a guy.

 

Image: That’s Grandma Cutrone on the right, Grandpa Cutrone on the left, my dad’s Aunt Carmela between them, and the altar to San Giuseppe in their home for St. Joseph’s Day, circa 1940s, Brooklyn, New York.